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   All Posts (TerryOlson)


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Re: "Check Engine" alarm/light troubleshooting advice
LSF Member
Joined:
12/23/2009
From Ramsey
Posts: 400
Well, for anyone who finds this thread in the future - it turned out to be a bad system alarm unit. I've learned on another site that in my setup that oil and temp are monitored and there is no sensor which trips the alarm for the generic "check engine" function. I bought a new one on ebay ($32.95 plus $8 shipping - as opposed to $139 from traditonal retailers) and this corrected the problem.

Just FYI.

Posted on: 7/18 21:22:12
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"Check Engine" alarm/light troubleshooting advice
LSF Member
Joined:
12/23/2009
From Ramsey
Posts: 400
I'm running a 1994 Lund Angler II with a 2004 Johnson 50 2-stroke tiller. The boat is equipped with an alarm system which consists of four lights - no oil, water temp, check engine, and low oil. New as of mid-morning today is the constant alarm sound and illumination of the check engine light. Previously when the key was turned on these tested themselves and went out/silent. Now when I turn on the key the alarm continues to sound and the check engine light remains illuminated.

My first thought was blocked water intakes, but they're clear and the engine is moving water through the telltale like it always does. I've had that experience before - where they're blocked and the engine goes into limp mode for lack of the correct term. In this case the engine runs just like it should and the boat moves out well also.

I find nothing of substance about this in the owner's manual and in several internet searches. There was a vague reference to fuel system under vacuum (not venting correctly) but I found no "hiss" when I opened the fuel cap. I disconnected the battery for a few seconds to see if this would reset the system, but when I turn on the key I still have the same conditions.

Any ideas as to the possible cause and how I can go about trouble shooting this?

Thanks in advance.

Posted on: 7/7 14:46:30
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Re: Trolling Motor Advice Please
LSF Member
Joined:
12/23/2009
From Ramsey
Posts: 400
Thanks for all of the advice - I'm not sure Minnkota is helping or hurting it's own cause with such an extensive product lineup! Too many options is almost as bad as having too few.

Posted on: 4/1 19:43:50
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Re: Trolling Motor Advice Please
LSF Member
Joined:
12/23/2009
From Ramsey
Posts: 400
Quote:

BrianHoffies wrote:
I have a bare bones 36 volt Ulterra I'll be selling soon. Be to much for your boat this year but if you are upgrading it sure will save you a bunch of money.


I had a look and that's too rich for my blood. I don't plan to buy new when I upgrade - but if I did I could see your point.

EDIT:

I watched a few more videos using that motor in river situations - very impressive! Maybe I should reconsider... PM me your price and location please / thanks.

Posted on: 3/31 18:45:22
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Trolling Motor Advice Please
LSF Member
Joined:
12/23/2009
From Ramsey
Posts: 400
I'm running a 2004 Lund Angler II tiller. The boat is 16' in length, 76" beam, and according to the original brochure weighs 712# - but I'm sure that's dry weight with no additional equipment so I'll guess the actual weight is 1100# or better.

The boat is in storage so I can't determine what trolling motor I currently have, but it's a 12v Minn Kota bow-mount and it just isn't enough for the boat in current or moderate winds.

I'm thinking about upgrading to something more powerful with the spot-lock feature. I don't need the i-pilot and such and I'm not clear, even after looking at the Minn Kota site, if spot lock is available without the other technologies.

Another mention is that I plan to run the boat this year and upgrade to something else next year - so I'm not excited to spend more than is necessary and I'll probably look to buy something used. I don't care if it's Minn Kota or something else.

I do have a couple of extra 12v deep cycle batteries. Maybe I should just add a second battery to the circuit so I can run longer without the loss of thrust that I experience when I run the single battery down and use it as is for the year?

Thoughts and advice?

Thanks in advance.

Posted on: 3/31 14:02:24
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Re: Access to Mitchell in Big Lake?
LSF Member
Joined:
12/23/2009
From Ramsey
Posts: 400
Quote:

HcUser wrote:
gps: 45.345497, -93.751112

or
113 Hill St, Big Lake, MN 55309

let me know if you do good...


Heading out there today - thanks.

Posted on: 2018/1/9 9:01
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Access to Mitchell in Big Lake?
LSF Member
Joined:
12/23/2009
From Ramsey
Posts: 400
Is there an access to Mitchell lake, which is adjacent to Big Lake (in the City of Big Lake, Sherburne County)? I find none on the DNR site.

Posted on: 2017/12/27 14:49
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Re: Propane ice augers
LSF Member
Joined:
12/23/2009
From Ramsey
Posts: 400
Quote:

Doberfishman wrote:
Serious question for everyone: Unless you are running and gunning and drilling 100's of holes in a day, why would anyone buy a gas or propane powered auger? The technology of the lithium's and K-drills is such that it makes a gas or propane auger obsolete unless you are drilling a lot of holes. Plus with a K-drill, you have a drill to use year round. I know my gas auger is next on the chopping block to get replaced.


I went with propane because the battery augers (3 years ago) were still iffy in terms of battery life and weight and they weren't any less expensive either. Even today I'm not convinced that dollar-for-dollar or hole-for-hole they're BETTER than propane. As the technology improves and the costs settle (relative to the alternatives) I do see an electric in my future.

I keep hearing about propane augers not starting in cold weather but in three years of use (yes, in cold weather) I have yet to experience this. Mine starts first or second pull every time, even after sitting all summer.

The K-Drill thing is an interesting fad in my estimation. No doubt they work, but they aren't any less expensive to get into and I doubt a guy will get but a few years out of each drill and set of batteries, if that. This is an expensive way to put holes in the ice over the long term.

Posted on: 2017/12/17 11:29
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Re: Propane ice augers
LSF Member
Joined:
12/23/2009
From Ramsey
Posts: 400
I've been using a Jiffy Pro 4 for three years now and I couldn't be happier with it. The only thing I'd do differently would be to go with the 8" instead of the 10". I've never had it not start - in fact, it starts first or second pull even after sitting all summer.

A couple buddies bought the Pro Lite models and these seem to have less power, but they're still nice.

Posted on: 2017/12/16 11:09
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Slip Bobber Stop Alternatives
LSF Member
Joined:
12/23/2009
From Ramsey
Posts: 400
I've always used the pre-made yarn slip bobber stops with a plastic bead but they don't work great. If they're left loose enough that they don't curl the line when moved they slip too much, and vice versa.

I run 2# Trilene XL on my panfish rods (4# on the summer rods) and I just set up a few walleye rods with 6# Fireline Micro Ice.

Are there better alternatives than the yard stops? Maybe some work well with mono and others work better with braid?

Thanks in advance.

Posted on: 2017/12/3 12:02
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